Yes, it's just streaming a video to you. The main limit is your connection speed if you're not near a datacenter as you're limited by ping, so controls can be laggy. You can try it out for free though, which will give you an idea of how good your link is.
> Could too much thermal insulation cause the bed temperature to lower (to avoid overheating chamber temp) to the point the print no longer adheres? etc.
That would depend how much "safety" is built into the control system.
The simplest solution I've seen is taping up the edges of the enclosure where you find gaps, to prevent heat escaping.
If it's only PID-ing the bed, the ambient temperature shouldn't matter. Less work to do for the bed heater. On the nozzle, it's similar. A 40 C increase in ambient temperature isn't much compared to the 150 C+ that the control system is maintaining. Since the active parts of the printer must be capable of running at the target chamber temperature, there should be no risk unless you exceed it. The question is really, is the printer designed to operate continuously with a chamber of X C?
However... the risk would be that if it's too well insulated there isn't a good way for the system to cool quickly if it needs to, or if it somehow messes with what the control system is tuned for. On the older printers you could re-calibrate the PID loops to your specific hardware and environment. The newer 32-bit firmware seems to not require user tuning at all. Similarly with full enclosures, you might worry about the power supply or other electronics which aren't meant to be run at high ambient (maybe fine though).
You could also look at a separate solution like enclosing the printer in well-insulated chamber, and aiming to keep that outer space above ambient. That would be a good option if you're expecting a big thermal gradient to your workspace, like an unheated garage in winter.
But lots of questions really. Do you want to run at a high chamber temp? Are you running in a cold environment and having problems? Trying to save power? These are different scenarios.
Yep - indeed one important issue people often forget with enclosures is that any non trivial components that end up inside the heated enclosure need to be able to safely continue working at the increased air temperature inside + any heat they or other parts of the printer generate that affects them.
If you steppers are already hot at 22 degrees of room temperature, they might end up damaged if air is at 45 degrees + are in use and generate their own heat.
Without the AMS, a Prusa Mk4 (used?) You're always going to pay a bit more but they're European built and extremely repairable. Unfortunately you do need to pay for the Mk4 or Core to match Bambu's ease of use. The Mini is also great for occasional use if you don't need a big build volume.
The Mk3 is also easy, and can be had for cheap now, but it doesn't have auto Z-adjust which is really nice. It's also noticeably slower compared to the latest models.
They are pretty comfortable, though they take getting used to because the seal is perfect and you'll slightly pressurize your ear canal which is a strange feeling. They'll also fit slightly inside your ear, so lying sideways is fine.
The downside is they're very expensive, relative to other earplugs and mine no longer seal as well as they used to so I'd need to get a new pair. They're still better than nothing. I started using earbuds around the same time, from using cans, and I wonder if I've very slightly widened my ear's opening.
I also use an eye mask if I'm somewhere that doesn't have good curtains or blinds. Really works very well, but I recommend one that wraps around and doesn't have an elastic band to dig into your ears (Matador makes a good one).
And yes, they're magnetically polarized according to the datasheet. To answer the sibling comment, they're through-hole soldered but frustratingly are 2.7mm not 2.54 so you'd be squeezing a little into an existing header (ignoring clearance on the side anyway). I'm not sure why the 7-pin is obsolete, they make up to 5-way active.
It would be amazing though to make it a hermaphroditic 4 or 6pin connector. With a pinout like this:
GND TX [VrefTX VrefRX] RX GND
So it always plugs at a 180° rotation, connecting RX to TX. And any cable also rotates 180°. Since you always have an odd total of (connections + cables), you always get the right connection...
Better yet, you could add more pins and switch them to using differential pairs to make it extensible for more use cases. While you're at it, you could have pins on both the top and bottom of the connector, and use a pair of sense pins to detect orientation, so that super specialized use cases can use every single pin available on the connector.
If only you could buy receptacles for this for like five cents a pop...
(If you do this, make sure that you don't send more than 3.3ish V over a pin, and that you're tolerant of 3.3V incoming, so that you don't explode yourself or victim devices if people randomly plug you into things. https://github.com/google/usb-cereal is a reference design for a UART over USB-C SBU adapter used for Pixel phones)
I also pointed out in that comment that USB-C debug accessory detection does not support orientation detection - and neither does the Google adapter you linked (it doesn't use debug accessory mode, and doesn't have some other solution either). As they say: "Determine correct orientation - top vs. bottom - the tool operates correctly only when SBU1 pin corresponds to TX and SBU2 pin corresponds to RX."
The fact that you can't detect orientation in debug accessory mode is a direct result of how it works: both CC lines are connected to the peer; normally the cable pulls one of the two to ground which is then your orientation reference for all the other pins. (This is also why you can't use a regular USB-C receptacle for debug accessories, it has to be direct to plug, the 2nd CC line doesn't go through the cable.)
So, if you use the SBU pins, it's not reversible anymore. If I remember correctly, debug accessories must still put USB on D+/D-, so the remaining option is to put serial RX/TX on the high speed pins, twice each on 180° positions.
Frankly I'm amazed that a solution exists that isn't hundreds of dollars. Some of these niche connectors can be really spendy.
I think rotation is a bit extra though. The frustration with the dupont/0.1" headers is that they're not polarized. As soon as you add a key (or a literal magnetic polarity here), that problem goes away.
There are possibly ways to handle orientation in software. If you did a 4-pin and include VCC, the pinout on the pi is hi-lo-tx-rx, so you could look for hi-lo-hi-hi and wait for some period to identify any logic transitions on the tx pin. There should always be a period where that pattern is correct, because either the output is idle (high) or it's sending a bit sequence which will also involve a high somewhere. If you ever see the "2nd" pin high, you know it's not ground. Then your serial transceiver needs some way of setting up rx/tx or tx/rx (either you remap the pins, software serial, or use an analog multiplexer).
If you have money to burn, get some LEMO push-pull connectors. They'll run you about $80 for a pair of each gender, but when you use them, you understand why trendy audio gear and instrumentation/optical OEMs use them. Occasionally when I make a project I treat myself and use them. Cheaper options are Mini XLR and Hirose HR10. Molex make a lot of wire-wire, but they're typically not rated for more than 25-50 cycles.
Those magnet couplings are nice. EDAC make a non-Aliexpress version, about $25 a pair.
As with these daily opinion threads, ymmv. I find GPT's code to be competent, but its voice isn't great. If Claude can be a little too cool, GPT-5.x often reads like 90s era movie hacker technobabble. This has got to be RLHF/alignment and the sort of tone that people like. Also anecdotally I used xhigh for a while and turned it down to medium because it would take so long to do even simple jobs. The instruction following is quite good with 5.5 so there isn't too much need to let it wander off.
The agents always do the best work IMO if you already know exactly what you want, but are too lazy to implement it. I like having the agent mock up a working solution before reimplementing it.
To split the difference, I now try to hand code as much as I can from the beginning, leave TODO comments for the agent to mop up and I'll ask it to complete the issue with reference to the current diff. It reduces the surface for agents to make stupid assumptions. If I can get it done fast on my own, win for me, if the agent finds issues or there's logic that needs checking, also a win. This way you stay sharp, but you have access to an oracle if you get stuck and it costs you fewer tokens.
Yeah, I like the "get out of jail free" card approach. The thing I always used to hate before this era was getting stuck in a hole on something that would take days or worse to grind through. It's nice to drop a little plank bridge across those now
It benefits Google's bottom line to have very capable small models that can cheaply cache results for search queries, even if they're frequently wrong. But I wonder if they use Gemini for the top X% of search terms to try and get better retention? Also the TPU vertical gives a good advantage here. I've never been super impressed with Gemini out of the box, but surely, surely, Google is best positioned here.
As a consumer, 24-32 GB VRAM is affordable ($1-2 k) and that's the frontier I'm most interested in. It's very "two papers down the line". Those models are also feasible to fine-tune, unlike the O(100+B) behemoths. The 4000 Pro Blackwell has very good TDP compared to people insisting on using 300-600W gaming cards. If I was freelancing, I would definitely consider getting a 6000 for work.
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